Because your cemetery is not complete without a crypt!

 Where else were you going to put that Flying Crank Ghost you've been wanting to build?

Tools needed for this project:

Approximately 35, 1x2 furring strips, miter saw (if you don't have one of these, there is no need to go any further), tape measure, serrated knife for cutting the Foam Board, chalk line, caulk gun, 1 bottle of wood glue, drill driver x 2 (1 for the screws and one to use with a countersink bit), # 6 and # 8 counter sink bits to use with second drill driver, lots of wood screws ( 1¼, 15/8, 2, 2½) all lengths are needed but mostly 1¼ and some 2 inch, speed squares will come in handy, and several carpenter's clamps of various sizes to hold the frame together while assembling and to keep the foam board in place while the foam adhesive is drying.

Tips:

You will want to gather all the wood and start making all the necessary cuts.

The front facade should be put together in stages.

Start by framing up all four walls separately.  This will make the build much more manageable.

Be sure to use wood glue at all seams for a stronger frame.

I countersink every screw hole before attempting to drill in the wood screws.  1x2 inch furring strips are very easy to splinter or crack if you do not pre-drill the screw hole before inserting the wood screws.

Build side walls, they are identical:

Cut 5 ft lengths from 2 furring strips for the top and bottom.

Next, make the side supports and the middle support 57 inches.  That will make the overall height and width 5 ft.

Use the #6 countersink bit to make pilot holes for all the screws.  I started off putting one screw in each corner, but I strongly suggest that you use two.

Once all the pilot holes are drilled, take your boards, frame them up and use wood glue on each seam where you will be screwing the boards together.  You should now have a square frame that has a support in the middle.  Repeat and you have the two sides of the crypt ready for framing.

Build back wall next:

Start off just as with the sides by cutting 2, 5 ft boards and 3 at 57 inches.

Then cut 4 boards (measurement coming)  inches to make the inside supports for the frame.

Once the supports are in place, it's time to cut the roof line.  I made mine 38 inches with a middle support of 28 inches.  The angled boards were cut at 50 degrees and 40 degrees to fit against the square of the frame and the middle support for the roof line.

Build front facade:

Construct the front wall similar to the back but cut an extra board at 57 inches.

The two 57 inch supports in the middle are spaced 1 ft from the side supports to make ample space for the entrance way.

Add the 28 inch support for the roof and 2 more 38 inch boards cut at 50 and 40 degrees, just as the rear frame, to complete the front frame's roof pitch.

Next, take 4 scrap pieces and fit them in between the entranceway supports and the side supports. (Scrap supports are not pictured here)

Build top Facade:

Start by framing up a small square, 1ft x 1ft.

Next, make two rectangles.  The middle rectangle is 3ft L x 1ft W.  The larger rectangle is 5ft L x 1 ft W.

Screw them all together and you will have something similar to the picture to the right.  I also added a middle brace for the larger rectangle to give it added strength.  This scrap support piece is approximately 10¾ inches.

Finish top Facade:

Use 10 ¾ inch boards from left over cuts to give each box some height.

The legs will attach at 1ft increments to have a finished product like the picture to the right.

Start by attaching the 1ft x 1ft frame 1ft in on the smaller rectangle from its ends.

Once you have built the small rectangles' legs, attach it to the larger rectangle 1ft from each of its ends.

Brace top Facade:

Brace up the facade with small scraps of board inside of all the legs to support the weight of the foam that will be attached later.

Just use wood glue and screws where needed.

I pre-drilled holes in the sides and "toe-nailed" the screws in each side at angles, then attached the support scraps for additional support.

Attach top Facade to Front Facade:

Attach the facade to the front wall using some heavy duty clamps.

Position the bottom of the facade exactly in line with the top 5ft board of the front wall.

Then screw the facade to the entire top of the front framing, securing it in several places for strength.  Don't forget to add the glue before clamping the two pieces!

Add bottom Porch:

Now build an identical rectangle the size of the bottom rectangle used in the top part of the facade.  This will be the porch/step for the front facade.

The porch is 5ft L x 1ft W.  Use 10¾ inch scraps for the ends and the middle bracing.

NOTE:  ADDITIONAL SUPPORTS ARE NOT NEEDED, AS NO TOTS WILL BE ALLOWED TO STEP ON THE FRONT PORCH.

Add PVC Columns:

Now add supports to the bottom and top front facade to support the PVC columns.

I used 4 inch schedule 40 PVC for columns.   Just one 10ft piece will do.  I cut them to approximately 58 ½ inches.

You will want to secure them in the front facade and porch by creating a frame for them.

I cut 4, 10¾ inch supports for the top of the facade  and porch where each PVC column will be placed.

Now cut 2, 4½ inch scraps to secure each column snugly to the back wall of the facade. 

NOTE:  DO NOT SECURE THE COLUMNS AT THIS POINT!

The Front Facade is Complete!

OK, if you haven't given up by now, the front should look something similar to this photo.

The PVC should help support the weight of the front facade, so that the very light framing does not have to take all the weight.

WARNING! - DO NOT SECURE THE PVC COLUMNS AT THIS POINT!  YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THEM LATER DURING THE FOAM BOARD PROCESS!

Assembled Crypt without Foam Board:

Finally, attach all sides to get something similar to the photo on the right.

You are now half way through the build!  Congratulate yourself, have a beer or take a break.  We still have more to go!

We want to add a roof and put side walls on the crypt as a minimum.  I also added candle shelving to the front, but we'll get to that later.

Pictured to the far right will be the tools of the trade.

Use the measuring tape to get all the lengths needed for cutting.  Mark  lines on the foam boards using the chalk line.  Then cut on the lines with a serrated knife (or foam cutter).

NOTE:  PEEL OFF PLASTIC COATING ON BOTH SIDES BEFORE CUTTING OR MEASURING THE FOAM!  OTHERWISE IT WILL CAUSE JAGGED EDGES ON YOUR CUTS!

While adhering the foam to the frame, be sure to secure the edges with clamps to help keep the foam board secured to the wood frame.

I pulled out the PVC columns so that I could mark and cut them out precisely.

Use PL300 adhesive.  It dries pretty quick.

Place the PVC columns up against the foam to mark out the shape.

Use a marker to draw out the hole.

Carefully cut out the hole using a serrated knife.

Caution:  Use knifes at own risk!

Once the PVC columns are through the foam board and back in place, secure them with wood screws.

This will help to support the weight of the top front facade.

The picture here is only for reference to how I used the standard 4x8 foam board sheets to cover the frame.

I don't recommend attempting to lay out the pieces and cutting them.  It is much too difficult to cut the foam board while the foam is not attached to the frame, yet.

Just note that it takes more than 1 sheet of foam to cover each wall.

Ok, just so we're clear.  Use the measuring tape, chalk line, and knife to cut out the foam.  Don't just place it down and start cutting!

The blue painter's tape shows the seam where 2 sheets of foam board were used to finish the back wall's framing.

Use some of the PL300 adhesive and match up the grooves in each end of the foam board to make a nice tight seam.

Ok, I know I made it look a very easy.  However, you will eventually get all the foam glued, clamped, screwed and prepped for paint.

For the roof, you can just measure and cut out foam board to cover it.

I made a frame, but it's totally optional.  I plan to put I Flying Crank Ghost in my crypt, so I needed the roof to have more than just foam board supporting it.

This is totally optional, but I wanted to add some candle shelves for a little more detail on the front!

I had some scrap wood from an old shelf.  It was already painted for the most part.  I just cut it out to fit next to each column and added a support underneath for strength.

I plan to put some PVC candles on them both.

I put a few counter sunk screws into the shelves/supports and attached them to the front facade by screwing screws in from the inside of the front facade.

This pictures barely shows off the details of the shelving, but you should be able to tell that they are there after we paint.

The most difficult part of this build is the details on the top of the front facade.  Obviously, so will be covering it!

Do as I did, start at the bottom working your way up.  Measure, cut, measure cut, etc.

Refer to this picture for some direction.

After placing any piece that didn't fit just right, use the serrated knife to smooth out the "lumps" in your cuts.

BE CAREFUL WHEN USING ANY CUTTING DEVICE!  USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!  ALWAYS CUT AWAY FROM YOUR BODY TO KEEP FROM ACCIDENTALLY CUTTING YOURSELF!

If you have any imperfections or "mess ups", use the joint compound to fill them.

No matter how carefully you cut, you will still notice the seams of each piece of foam board you cut to fit.  I fixed this by smoothing on a little joint compound into each seam.

Just sand it down when it dries.  I let it dry over night, but there is such a thing as fast drying mud available at most hardware stores.

Here's another tip.  Use Exterior Latex paint for all foam board projects!  Oil based paint can "eat" through foam, and that's NOT COOL!

I used an exterior latex general purpose primer made by Kilz.

The paint is grey exterior latex paint.

Start by priming the foam board with the exterior latex primer.  I used a foam roller and paint brush for the cutting in the details.

This is a picture of the first coat.

It will take several coats to cover the designs etched in the foam.  Be patient, you will get it covered, eventually!

To conserve time and money, you may find it easier and faster to assemble the crypt before the final paint job.

This will save you time and money if you don't plan on doing anything to the inside of the crypt.

I preferred to prime everything separated, so that I could easily paint the edges of the foam.  (Nobody likes a pink crypt!!!)

Roll, sponge, or wipe the final coat of exterior paint on the outside of the crypt.

Any technique can be used.  I happen to use a sponge, but a foam roller would work just fine.

Be creative!  It's your crypt, paint it as you wish.  I was in a hurry, so not much special was applied to mine.

Not much to add here, but I did enlist the help of my ladder to paint the top.  It was a rush job, as it was getting dark on me.

When the paint dries, don't be bashful about adding more paint, or up the creep factor with some aging techniques of your own.

OK, I am definitely no artist, but I was able to make the Crypt look aged and weathered with a simple Dry Bush technique.

Just take a paint brush and dab off the excess paint until it is almost "dry" again.  Then lightly apply the paint vertically anywhere you like using long, smooth strokes.  The result should be something like the picture here on the right.

Good luck with your Finishing Touches!